Enchanting Rhine + Amsterdam + Basel // AmaWaterways November 2017

I returned two weeks ago from a trip to Europe and grateful to have finally experienced AmaWaterways on my first European river cruise. While I have cruised a river previously, it was the Yangtze back in 2009. My sales for river cruises in general have increased these past years and so this opportunity to experience the journey myself was invaluable.

I departed MSP on Sunday, October 29th and arrived AMS on a Delta nonstop flight by mid-morning Monday, October 30th. I flew Delta Comfort Plus and found that the extra space and DL Sky Priority Boarding was both comfortable and welcoming. The food onboard has improved in my view – with a few extra touches and treats to make the meal experience not just tolerable, but quite good.

I had purchased the Holland Pass through Travel Bound- “large” which meant that I would receive three gold and three silver coupons valid on various experiences in Holland, many of which are offered in Amsterdam. Per the instructions on the Travel Bound voucher, I went to the Planes and Plaza Gift Shop at Schiphol Airport in order to exchange my Travel Bound voucher for the actual Holland Pass. The voucher states that there are many other exchange locations in central Amsterdam, but felt (and recommend to clients) that exchanging it at the airport makes sense with a morning arrival- get this task out of the way! I have sold this pass to many travelers over the past few years, and always had positive feedback (worth every penny- not the case with all “city passes” but for Amsterdam, the Holland Pass is great). As a result, I was surprised by the response I received from the clerk at the shop who did not recognize the voucher. She did share that she was watching the shop for another colleague and was new… but that the other shop clerk would be back in 15-20 minutes. The issue for this clerk was that my voucher did not have any bar code… all others she had in her register all had bar codes. I assured her that I have had many clients exchange their vouchers at this very location over the years (shared I was a travel agent). But she wouldn’t budge. I pulled my paperwork to call to the in-destination Travel Bound service desk; I called the service number on the voucher information page. Just when I got through- the other clerk arrived the shop and she did not recognize the voucher either. She proceeded to call her supervisor and I told the Travel Bound desk on the line to hold on for a moment – suddenly, the clerks acknowledged that all was OK. I truly hope that was a one-off – and making a mental note that perhaps in the future, if I sell these again… it is best to have customers take their Travel Bound vouchers to the actual Tour Offices in Amsterdam City instead (those noted on the voucher called Tours & Tickets).

Next, I made my way to the Starbucks in Arrivals 4- where I had agreed to meet up with my Europe Trip 2017 traveling companion- who was traveling to meet me in Amsterdam from St. John Newfoundland, Canada. One we enjoyed a coffee at Starbucks, we headed across the way to the Public Transportation Connexxions Desk which one could see from the Starbucks shop. This was where I was to exchange my Travel Bound voucher for the actual Connexxions Shuttle bus that would take us to the Pulitzer Amsterdam. The agent at Connexxions was delightful and quickly offered us our tickets and a tiny piece of paper with step-by-step instructions on the steps we would need to take from her desk to Platform A7 where we would find our shuttle bus. In a short 5-6 minute walk, we found the platform easily with three men waiting and three buses. We were directed to our appropriate bus for the Jordaan area and climbed aboard. We waited perhaps ten minutes for the small 8 passenger van to fill with other travelers and then off we went. The journey from airport to city center likely took about 15-17 minutes; however, it was the slow traffic, one way streets, cyclists and stops for other guests at other hotels that translated to a roughly 45-50 minute total journey by the time we arrived at Pulitzer Amsterdam.

The Pulitzer Amsterdam was the perfect home away from home for my companion and myself. These 25 canal homes converted into a deluxe category hotel provides the right balance of elegance with comforts of home. The hotel offers 225 rooms and suites, all of the canal homes are connected by glass enclosed walkways and moving from one end to the other is a quick 5-7 minute journey. The passageways feel at first as if one might not fully grasp the intricacies of the layout and that one might get lost on one’s way to breakfast; but in truth- within a few passes through, one gets the gist of it.

Upon arrival at around 1:00pm, we were delighted to learn that our room was available for immediate occupancy: Classic Twin Canal View. The room (386) had the perfect space for two gals sharing with lovely touches that made one feel at home. The desk had a tea kettle and some tea bags and a coffee press along with fresh grounds from Brazil. The bar set up and mini-bar supplies came with a variety of cocktail recipes if we were so inclined. The room comes with two bottles of water each day (one still and one slightly carbonated) along with some wafer cookies for our refreshment. The mini-bar is at cost of items.

Each room has a lovely free-standing wardrobe with safe, hair dryer. Toilet/Shower in all rooms- some of the upgraded categories also have a tub.

I checked in with the front desk to reconfirm my site inspection scheduled for 3pm. This gave me a couple of hours to refresh and rest before hitting the ground with business matters.

At the appointed hour, I met with Koen – sales rep whom I had connected with before arrival in Holland. I had booked my room as part of a DLV package to get the reduced rate air. The DLV rates do not include breakfast; however, Koen extended complimentary breakfast daily for my friend and I- which was greatly appreciated. Rates through Classic include breakfast & with Classic, the Signature Amenities would be honored for our clients. This hotel is one that I have sold here and there a few times and I have one client who stated to me that when in Amsterdam, she wouldn’t stay anywhere else.

The best way I can describe Pulitzer is that it combines old world with modern quirkiness, elegance with comfort, a casual and warm atmosphere, many little nooks and crannies to relax and enjoy time at leisure with a cocktail, snack or time to curl up and read. Perfect place to recharge the batteries in between sightseeing activities. It is located in the Jordaan area- only one full block (mid block to mid block) from the Anne Frank Huis. Further, it is within a short 5 minute walk of one of the main stops/tourist shop for the Hop On Hop Off Citysightseeing bus & canal boat route and within about a 10-15 minute walk of the very heart of city center. While there are other hotels closer to Dam Square or the museums, for sure- and I have sold those too…. what I like about Pulitzer is that it is in this specific 9 Streets Section which offers a small side streets and small canals/bridges area which is full of tiny shops, cafes and restaurants. The area is not permitted to have a McDonalds or an H&M store, they must keep to historic preservation standards- which means the feel of the area immediately surrounding the hotel is quaint and charming.

My site inspection was marvelous- Koen pointed out these wonderful little areas of the hotel where guests could relax and enjoy a laid back atmosphere while also showing several of the different room categories from Cozy Room (meant for the single traveler- their smallest room) up to the larger suites for large families. The suites often have an entrance from the “inside” of the hotel corridors as well as their own private entrance from the street, which makes the occupants feel they are in their own real home away from home. Rooms either face interior courtyards or canals.

After the site inspection, I spent the next 1-2 hours walking the streets immediately surrounding the hotel to get our bearings and enjoy the local flavors. Then, on our way back to the hotel, we just popped into a local restaurant offering up tiny tables with candles, mellow music and wonderful comfort food. The price could not have been better- with 41 Euros covering two people for a full dinner and two beers. We were pleased with the quality of the food and atmosphere.

Finally time to wind down and make our way back to the hotel. While out and about, we had picked up a bottle of red wine (Bordeaux wine) at a small grocer- along with a nut mix and chips and a chocolate covered ginger wafer. Perfect for the munchies. The best part was that in this small little grocer that felt like a mini-organic market, the wines all prices around 6 to 8 EUR for the bottle! So far, Amsterdam if proving to be one of the more affordable destinations in Europe.. very reasonable and so enjoyable.

October 31, 2017 // Amsterdam
After allowing ourselves some liberty to sleep in a bit (7am wake up) we were refreshed and rested enough to start our official day of exploring Amsterdam’s major sites. Our breakfast at the hotel was in their restaurant: Jansz. The restaurant offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. For breakfast, it is an international breakfast buffet, with many cold offerings (fruit, cereals, cheeses, cured meats, yogurts, smoked salmon and other fishes) as well as the option to order warm breakfast dishes off the menu (omelets, hot cereals, waffles and more). I enjoyed a marvelous muesli mix with yogurt, fresh fruit, a cappuccino and a scrambled egg dish which was topped with Avocado and placed on Brioche- a bit of savory and sweet hit the spot.

Next, we headed out of the hotel- exiting from the restaurant side and walking a mere half block and then left and another half block where we found the Tours & Tickets office where we would exchange 1 gold ticket (Holland Pass) for the Citysightseeing Hop On Hop Off Bus & Canal Boat Tour. The exchange of voucher went quickly but then the wait seemed long- the bus was meant to arrive every fifteen minutes but it seemed closer to twenty five minutes before the bus arrived. Once onboard, we made our way up to the second floor with the glass enclosed dome ceiling which gave us an excellent perspective. We were boarding on bus stop 11, which is the very last stop on the bus tour. Thus, many had exited the bus before we boarded. This allowed us to capture these seats up above… we found that on the next stop (stop 1 at Central Station) many boarded but then unpleasantly surprised when they climbed the stairs to our level only to find that the bus upstairs was already full from previous stops. Even now- in end of October, this is a popular tourist city. We would find that to be the case later in the day too – at Anne Frank House.

The one hour we spent from Stop 11 through various areas of Amsterdam all the way to end at Stop 9 (Rijksmuseum) was perfect. We had a good overview sense of the city- and were able to see various neighborhoods which made for a great intro. We ended our bus portion at Rijksmuseum and used 1 gold pass each to enter the famous museum. We knew we were only spending an hour or so in this museum today because we had reservations for Anne Frank House at 2pm (which we made 60 days in advance on-line and which is important to do if you are to get a time slot). We focused our attention in the Rijksmuseum on two primary artists of note, which at present you would find on the 2nd floor: Rembrandt and Vermeer among other 17th century artists. This was truly a highlight for me as I love the work of Vermeer especially. I was also thrilled to see Rembrandt’s Night Watch in person – the massive tableau covered a large wall and the descriptions offered of Rembrandt’s intentions and use of light and color, were remarkable.

After our Rijksmuseum visit, it was time to continue the trek and we decided to switch it out- canal boat this time. This was easily accessed by walking a short half block from the museum to stop #5 on the Citysightseeing Canal Bus Stop – we arrived and waited about 5 minutes for the next canal boat to pull up. We boarded and showed the ticket we had received on the first bus which would cover unlimited hop on hop off on both bus and canal boat for 24 hours. We had planned to exit just 1 stop away to get to Anne Frank House and thought maybe it would be a very short ride; however, that one stop distance was quite substantial, giving us plenty to gaze at as we passed by with various rooftops and elegant private residences along with the charming and varying arched bridges. This was a very relaxing way to move from place to place.

The next stop, our exit- Anne Frank House Stop. And the boat does not stop immediately in front of Anne Frank House- it’s just that it is in pretty close proximity to the museum/house- thus the stop is called: Anne Frank House. Still, you should tell clients that they are not being dropped right in front of the site… we walked a few half blocks in a square from canal stop to museum and realized how close we truly were. We were early by about 50 minutes; so we decided to find a place for a quick bite and refreshment. The thing about Amsterdam is that all around you, there are options, every block seems to have a quaint spot to duck in and grab a coffee or tea, a pastry or soup. We enjoyed a quick green tea with honey and split an apple cake which we learned was homemade from a resident living above the restaurant- “she makes all of our pies”. The pie was so lovely- not too sweet, excellent crust and the apples mixed with cinnamon and raisins and then garnished with a bit of whipped cream. A perfect bite.

We gathered ourselves and headed to Anne Frank Huis. A half block away, it was easy to make our way to the entrance and we had about 8 minutes to spare. Turns out, you enter exactly at the appointed time- no earlier. So, we were directed to a small area where a line was forming separate from the actual line going into the building. This little line was located on a side street area in between the house & the church- and we waited with other 2:00pm reservation holders. At exactly 2:00pm, we were guided back over to the main line which is in front of the museum.

Our visit took about an hour- we quietly and gently seemed to be following a pace with other museum goers from room to room, each room providing a narrative of the lives lived by the Franks while in hiding. It was truly impactful to gain the perspective of their lives, their fears, their anxieties and final outcomes. A cautionary tale and a reminder of what can happen with madmen gone wild.

After the museum tour, we headed back to the hotel for an afternoon refresh and cocktail hour. Spending time in the Pulitzer bar, with the dark woods, leather and velvet couches and chairs and their marvelous cocktail menu for refreshment, was the perfect recharge before dinner.

Dinner was incredible at Cafe de Kleppel. I had found the place on-line with rave reviews listed. The concept is a small intimate affair with a choice of daily of either a 3 course dinner or 4 course dinner served to all clients. Everyone in the house gets the same menu. If you do not like what they are offering, they do have a small a la carte menu you can order from with a couple of alternative items. We chose to go with the Chef’s menu 3 course. To begin though, we selected from a vast wine list (pages and pages long wine list) and settled on a red wine: Domaine du Cote de Rhône and I regret not writing that one down because it was truly smooth and we so enjoyed it. Our starter was a beautiful Carpaccio topped with thinly shaved parmesan slices along with pine nuts and a creamy garlic dressing drizzle of sorts. So tender and the flavor truly divine. For the main course, we were served Duck which was cured and served with white beans and basil. It hardly tasted like duck- more like cured ham- not too salty, fantastic. Often Duck can be heavy and greasy- but not this duck, it was great. Between main course and dessert, we agreed a cheese course was in order and loved the hard cheese (from Northern France we were told) with the Camembert and a Rocquefort style Danish selection as a soft and pungent oozing selection that I can’t recall the name of. This a lesson on writing everything down in future! So delicious. Dessert was a beautiful pistachio and apricot tart- perfect combination and again, delicious.

We loved this 3 hour dinner where we were seated at wood tables, only about 8 tables in the place along with bar seats for walk in customers. One must make reservations well in advance and I found it definitely worthwhile. The place is situated about 2.5 blocks from our hotel… down the same street Prinsengracht, and then tucked away two steps in on a side street. Marvelous!

November 1, 2017 // Amsterdam
Today we enjoyed a full day in the countryside. Using our Holland Pass (Large) the Volendam, Marken and Windmills Tour was worth every bit of the 6 hour journey. While this is a larger bus group tour (about 40 of us) the guide and driver were so well organized, and the group so responsive- that it went extraordinarily well in my view and checked off some boxes on things we wanted to be sure to see: tiny countryside villages, a seaport village, wooden shoe factory and windmills! The tour is provided by a company called Tours & Tickets – also same company that operates the Citysightseeing Hop On Hop Off Tours. To start, we took a cab to the starting point of the tour which was on a street called Damrak (Damrak 26 is the address) where we exchanged 1 gold and 2 silver for our tour tickets. Worth using these 3 coupons for the one full day tour. We were directed about 2 blocks by following our guide to the large bus which waited for us and then off we went to the Zaanse Schans Museum- which is situated about 20 Minutes outside of Amsterdam in the countryside. This is an outdoor museum village with a living population of 70 citizens residing on the premises. This village offers shops and bike rental options- up against the largest collection of historic windmills still in use today. On arrival, we were advised we had 1 hr 15 minutes to take in the place and our visit would begin with a walk to the oldest of the mills- dating back 410 years and which was manufacturing linseed oil out of flax seed. Linseed oil is used to make oil paints. We walked about fifteen minutes to the windmill, passing by quaint black painted homes with tile roofs that lined tiny canals, and always lined with a pedestrian and bike path. The “miller” was excited to greet us and share the details on how his windmill operated. Our group was mostly English speakers and a 2nd largest portion was Spanish speaking- so our guide as well as the miller would flip from English to Spanish in quick procession to explain all instructions and details. It was not disruptive at all and was fascinating to hear. Both our guide had a polished fluency and authentic accents, which made the back-and-forth translations interesting to listen to. After enjoying the demonstration of the mill’s functionality and product, we made our way back towards the buses with opportunities to enjoy hot chocolate and light shopping.

Then, off we were towards Volendam. Volendam is a larger coastal city compared to Zaanse Schans- to be sure. Only about 30 minutes outside of Amsterdam it offers a marvelous array of shops and restaurants and ferries to Marken (where we would go later in the afternoon for our wooden shoe factory tour). Volendam is so charming with its colorful houses with peak roofs all facing Markermeer Lake. The harbor is dotted with fishing boats and the atmosphere is very cozy and welcoming. Among the shops you find waffle and pancake shops, clothing, souvenirs and the like. We had a scheduled visit to enjoy the Volendam Cheese Factory which offered an opportunity to taste various typically Dutch cheeses and buy some cheese focused souvenirs. While I already had a Dutch cheese slicer (which we were told correctly actually came from Scandinavia originally) – a new tool I had not seen before was a cheese slicer fashioned more in the form of a cheese grater.. had to have one and affordable at only 5.95 EUR.

That brings up another delightful observation with Amsterdam- so affordable. So far, we have not encountered any costs of food, souvenirs or other items that were unreasonably high by our U.S. standards, unlike some other countries, this place is affordable to enjoy a vacation get-away. I wouldn’t call it a low budget place- but definitely midrange and reasonable. For instance, we popped in for a coffee and snack before Anne Frank House yesterday- my green tea was 2.5 EUR and the apple torte was 4.00 EUR and it was a rather large slice. So to me- this is just in line with midrange / regular pricing which most US tourists are used to.

After our cheese factory tour, we moved on down the quay to our lunch spot. This was a place selected by the guide company (likely for efficiency more than anything else, as we had a waffle making demonstration to follow lunch before our upcoming ferry crossing to the town of Marken). This place is called: De Lunch- appropriate. It is a seafood specialty place- with their primary specialty being Baccalo, which is essential Cod Fish & Chips. These were delicately battered, very flavorful and the fish so fresh. Delicious with a wonderful glass of their recommended beer (only 5 EUR) Robuust/ a Blond Bier! After our meal, we had time to wander a bit before our scheduled waffle making demo and we enjoyed popping into shops where we found clothing prices so reasonable… a lovely wool sweater was pricing at around 35 EUR… remarkable. Other nicely fashioned pieces all under 40-50 EUR … great to see.

The Waffle Demo was interesting as well. This takes place at Woltje’s Backerij and this is not your ordinary waffle- these are the crisp tiny waffles that are created and then filled with a caramel center and which are sometimes placed on top of a coffee or tea to soften and then enjoy a warm chewy waffle cookie with the warm beverage. We climbed down into a lower cellar where wooden benches waited for us in front of a old fashioned kitchen gallery. Our waffle factory guide asked for a volunteer who step by step created the waffles as were done since years gone by. Of course at the conclusion of the demonstration, we are directed back up the stairs into the gift shop where all kinds of waffles are available on purchase- the original style as demonstrated, and then the chocolate covered ones, and cinnamon added ones. And more.

After the demonstration, we head to the quay and ferry boarding point. This double decker ferry offers a 30 minute crossing over to Marken. The wind was swift and whipping our hair around, and the fresh breeze as delightful. Most stayed outside, but others opted for an inside barrier to the weather conditions. The ferry had a small selection of cocktail, snacks and other refreshments available for purchase.

Marken is another tiny little town with these short black and dark green painted buildings. The tiny village has a series of paths along equally tiny canals- filled with ducks and swans and little chickens freely roaming and foraging for seed. We wind our way through the village, stopping to admire and take pictures – ending at the Wooden Shoe Factory were we receive a demonstration with one chunk of very moist wood turned into a right foot clog. The process these days is done with machines (not by hand) but the end product is quaint and functional. Wooden clogs are completely water proof and excellent for gardeners and farmers. Easy to remove at the house entry and when worn with woolen socks are very comfortable. Also, the guide suggests it is very good for posture and the back in general. And finally, of course- quite sexy.

This stop ends our tour and we all head back to the bus and learn that we have only about a 20 minute ride back to Amsterdam.

The time on the bus between each stop offered audio guide with headphones and we received a nice overview of Amsterdam and Countryside. Again, tour was well worth the time spent.

After the tour we were dropped off just beyond the Amsterdam Central Station and decided to slowly wander back to our hotel on foot – stopping at shops along the way. We made our way through tiny streets flanked by canals and even walked through the Red Light District. And, there they were- ladies in windows in their lingerie, offering themselves up for glances and stares. A part of this open community along with various condom and marijuana shops. We ended that visit emptied out at the Old Church- and popped into a chocolate shop. Finally, we walked just a few more blocks and found ourselves at our hotel. The Pulitzer is wishing walking distance of Dam Square- but it is about 4-5 solid blocks. I still feel that Pulitzer (and Jordaan area in general) is a great spot for those that have 2-3 nights in Amsterdam, as it is overall more calm and quiet than the busy and noisy Dam Square areas or those areas near Central Station- but still accessible by foot. And, we were situated only 1 block from a Canal Boat Tour entry point and the Hop On Hop Off bus tour point. One block from Anne Frank House. Many authentic tiny restaurants all around us, lovely little shops. Truly … perfect.

For dinner, we decided to try one of the Pancake Houses- so many of them all around Amsterdam- which one should I choose? I went with the recommendation from my hotel host: Koen Stigter – who said that The Pancake Bakery was really one of the best www.thepancakebakery.nl and was he right! My friend and I enjoyed the Caprese Pancake with added chicken for our savory pancake selection, and then split the Brazilian for our desert (Brazilian had Amaretto Ice Cream, Whipped Cream and a drizzle of Amaretto Syrup. Yum! Afterwards, we chose some streets to walk along that we had not yet enjoyed- peeking into gallery and shop windows and admiring the many different lit up windows along the canal. So charming and a perfect final night in Amsterdam! Tomorrow- it’s embarkation day!

November 2, 2017 // AmaPrima
Hard to believe today is the day already – embarkation is this afternoon: AMA Waterways/AMA Prima.

We begin our day with breakfast and find that unlike the other days – the Restaurant Jansz is full of people – they have a group function going on in the hotel so the hotel is completely full! And, the conversation is much more animated than previous days- louder and more businesslike. Quite a difference atmosphere from the lower voiced casual and relaxed environment of previous days. We enjoy items from the ample buffet and also order a few warm items. Lovely.

Today, I spent time writing and relaxing in the morning – while my friend fulfills her inclination towards shopping. She headed out to the Albert Cuypmarket which we were told by our concierge is one of the better – more enjoyable markets. It is situated behind the Heineken Experience Museum. Her goal today is to perhaps find some nice shoes for the cruise- and our concierge suggests this is likely quite possible. While there are many shops near our hotel, some of those are a bit higher end and she is looking for something in the more moderate range. Plus she just wants to roam and browse interesting stalls and see if she can find some treasures.

At one o’clock we reunite and she shows her successes- two pairs of great shoes! She had a ball. We head to the pier by taxi. The ride took about 12 minutes and cost was around 13 EUR (plus tip). On arrival at our pier, we easily located our ship and short walkway area with the AMA Waterways Awning/Hospitality Tent. When we exited the taxi, we were very quickly greeted by two gentleman from AMA Waterways to welcome us and take our luggage onboard. Less than 2 minute walk and we were in the reception area of AmaPrima for our check-in. We were pleased that our cabin was available for immediate occupancy and our room #201 was the first one in the hallway off the lobby. So easy! Our room was spacious and well laid out offering plenty of elbow room and two places to relax in our twin balcony set-up, inside two chairs and table with French Balcony & two chairs and table on our outside balcony. The shower/toilet is spacious as well- nice size shower and basin. Our mini-fridge is filled with water bottles and we learn it will be refreshed daily. There are Quiet Vox units on the desk in their rechargers- these will be used for our day tours (Quiet Vox and ear buds allow the guides to speak to us quietly and we can hear all the narration without guide having to yell- pretty standard on tours these days). We decide to take care of unpacking as our first step and then we sought to explore the small vessel and get acquainted with our facilities. Lovely “living room” area is our main lounge- soft music playing with our onboard pianist performing. The staff is lined up on the curved staircase waiting to greet other guests as they continue embarkation. We decide to enjoy a light finger sandwich and a small piece of cake and coffee/tea as our late lunch. After spending about an hour relaxing in the main lounge (living room) we head to our room to unwind. We find on our TV set that there are many wonderful movie choices and choose the Zookeepers wife- as we have about 1 hour 45 minutes before the Welcome Reception. The room is very comfortable – and love the twin balcony set-up giving ample views of the outside from both of our twin beds. The only thing that strikes me is that the bed mattresses are a bit less “hotel style” than I had anticipated- not that “comfy” and I wonder what other river cruise companies offer. Still, overall pleased with the set-up.

At around 5:45pm we hear the ship wide announcement from our Cruise Manager Colin- advising us that it is time to gather for the obligatory Welcome Reception which will be followed immediately by our Welcome Dinner.

The Welcome Reception started with our being greeted by staff and handed a glass of Champagne and a rose. This gathering was our introduction to the staff as well as our safety instructions for the duration of our trip… marvelous “muster drill” with champagne and sitting on a comfortable couch. It was fun and informative.

Dinner is with seating on a first come first served basis- we were guided to a round table that would seat six people, and were soon joined by a lovely two-some, two lady friends who enjoy traveling together: Helen and Olga- both from Tampa and first time River Cruisers. Retired airline reservationists from Continental, they had been friends for years and frequently travel together. We had an enjoyable dinner- choosing the Chef’s Recommendations for all of our courses. An initial berry mousse with a slice of duck to tease the palate, a crab cake with langoustine, followed by a consommé of mushroom. For the main course, prime rib of beef with potato cakes, cauliflower and broccoli and then ended with a raspberry sorbet and chocolate mouse combination. The red wine flowed freely and was a delicious Merlot. Ended with decaf coffee. A truly lovely first meal.

On return to our room, our attendant had created a lovely setting with lighting and turn down and we prepared to retire with the end of our movie: Zookeepers Wife.

November 3, 2017 // Amsterdam
We set our alarm for 7:15am to ensure we were in time for the breakfast in the main dining room which was scheduled from 7am-9am. We figured if we got there by 8:30am we could eat while others prepared to go ashore. We had decided not to participate in the canal cruise & city tour of Amsterdam since we had already spent 2 full days in the city and had done those activities on our own. The ship would sail at 9am and participants in the tour would rejoin the ship around 1pm further down the river after enjoying canal, city & countryside tour. For us, we planned to relax onboard and enjoy the scenery go by- perhaps do some writing or enjoy the treadmill.

We were in the dining room for breakfast by 8:15am and the place was already quite full and any open seating had soiled table linens from previous diners. We had to walk around a bit before finding a clean table from which we were quickly greeted, served coffee and enjoyed our breakfast. I chose a cooked to order omelet which was delicious (perfectly cooked I might add- not dry and not underdone… perfect). I also took some prunes and yogurt and enjoyed the robust coffee. Our dining partners from the night before ended up being our breakfast partners- that was fun. Lovely two ladies that are about our mother’s ages. The ladies were joining the tour today and after a quick bite with us promptly made their way back to the staterooms to gather their coats and Audio Vox units.

My friend and I headed back to our rooms to get our coats and move to the Sun Deck for further exploration. The Sun Deck offers a large selection of chairs to enjoy the outdoors, a walking track and swimming pool- along with the Captain’s Bridge. The chairs in the middle of track are mostly high backed tight canvas- very supportive to just sit back and enjoy the view. On the forward part of the deck, there are a host of wicker type lounge love seats with comfy black pillows to relax and enjoy leisurely time up top. Lovely setting to enjoy the outdoors while cruising down the river.

After taking several rounds on the track, we head back indoors and decide to relax in our cabin – on the indoor seating area we turn our chairs to face out looking at the scenery- ample space for the two of us and our table. A great option. After a while, my friend decides to go down to the fitness center to walk the treadmill, while I stay back in the cabin to do some writing.

The ship made a quick stop at the appointed time, pulling up to a pier for the other cruisers to rejoin the ship around 1pm which marked time for lunch. During the afternoon, cruisers were free to relax and enjoy on ship services, play games in the lounge or whatever suited them. In the late afternoon, our Cruise Manager offered an opportunity for all to gather so that he could take us through the whole week- and what we could expect each day. He had a power point with screen set up in the lounge and walked us through each day, each port and the kinds of tours that would be on offer (regular tours, late risers, gentle walkers and more active). It was helpful to have each day explained so that one could get a better sense of what was to come. Also, the Cruise Manager asked us to complete a form and turn it in that evening- the form would show which tour selections each traveler anticipated that they would participate in- this would allow the cruise line to know in general- how many bikes would be needed, and the number of motor coaches and/or guides in each port based on level of interest in each tour type/style. Still, he repeated several times that if anyone wanted to make changes – even day of tour… that was fine… it is “your vacation” and we want you to enjoy the tours that appeal most. We are told that as long as not everyone makes a change- it should be just fine. Colin reminded us also that we would receive a Daily Cruiser each night which would cover all that would happen the next day with a schedule.

Once again, dinner was marvelous- each night, the Chef selections were truly delicious. There was not one meal that I felt fell short in any way. Great seasoning, well cooked – not dry, not overcooked nor undercooked. We enjoyed a nice variety.

Dinner was followed by an amazing performance by “La Strada” – a classical music trio with string instruments and beautiful voices… passionate music and very well received.

November 4, 2017 // Cologne & Koblenz
My friend had chosen the bike tour today, while I opted for gentle walkers. With my recent summer knee surgery, I had decided that when warranted, I would seek out activities that would not cause me to suffer later. The Gentle Walker tour of Cologne was primarily a walking tour outdoors- we spent a good hour and a half walking the perimeter of the cathedral in the center of town – with a narrated explanation of the architecture, its role in history- particularly WW II, and the superstitions and relics buried here. We were provided with a 1 ½ hour period of free time to shop and enjoy before having to return to the motor coach for our return ride to the ship which was a short distance (about 10-15 minute bus ride).

Once back onboard, we enjoyed lunch. The ship continued its journey towards Koblenz and mid-afternoon, the lounge offered tea time with lovely finger sandwiches and cakes. Each day, mid-afternoon generally found this type of spread for those that needed a midday snack. The coffee station was fabulous with all kinds of options from tea, regular coffee, decaf, cappuccino, latte and hot chocolate. This was available 24/7 for anyone wishing a refreshment at any time.

Tonight, there was a reception scheduled just before dinner- for those onboard who had traveled with AmaWaterways.

After dinner, we enjoyed a fantastic performance by two ladies holding tribute to ABBA. The ladies sang many different hits and the dance floor was often filled with (mostly) women who thoroughly enjoyed dancing to universal favorites.

November 5, 2017 // The Rhine Gorge, Rhine Castles & Ruins/Rüdesheim
Today, most of the day was spent sailing down the Rhine past 30+ castles of significance. Most folks gathered in the lounge and some braved the upper deck even with the wind, cold temperatures and a bit of drizzle. Those of us in the main lounge could still walk to the ship entrances on both sides of the lobby which opened up to a small deck space where one could take photos. Marvelous castle & riverside village photos were still possible even with the elements. The Cruise Manager did a nice job of explaining the various facts and history of key castles as well as pointing out key aspects of the region. The cruise company had provided a nice map with our Daily Cruiser the night before, which showed all the castles along with respective mile marker, so it was easy to follow along.

In the afternoon, after lunch- we found ourselves in Rüdesheim am Rhein, a charming vineyard town where we could choose from various tour experiences. We selected the wine tasting and it was a lovely 45-minute overview of some of the key Riesling wines found in the region. The town was lovely with little shops and cafes. A small hamlet to wander for an hour or so- we were close enough to walk back to the ship. This was one of the only villages which was easily accessible on foot from ship to town; about a 15 minute walk.

This evening we enjoyed our Chef Table Dinner- which offered an delicious array of excellent foods- it went a little long so we ran into a time crunch for the evening tour which was offered. We were served our desserts when we heard the over the system announcement that the tours back into Rüdesheim am Rhein were departing in 5 minutes. We were not going to make it and decided not to rush our desserts. But, noting that for clients- I should recommend they check the full week’s schedule before making their Chef Table Reservation because they should avoid it if there is an evening tour scheduled (book Chef Table a different night). The tours offered included a visit to the Mechanical Museum or we could opt for a typical Rüdesheim am Rhein Coffee which had a delicious liqueur and special toppings.

November 6, 2017 // Mannheim/Speyer & Heidelberg
The morning was spent cruising- with an info session scheduled in the main lounge for those that had signed up for the post-cruise extension in Switzerland accompanied by the Cruise Manager (not on our list).

The afternoon stop was in Mannheim from which our tour options included a visit to either Speyer or Heidelberg. My traveling companion chose Heidelberg, with a visit the ruins of an extensive castle- the oldest in Germany, the place to go was Heidelberg. Heidelberg also offers fabulous shopping streets which were a great way to spend the time after the castle visit. Cruisers had a choice of more active with hikes up and down the slope and those seeking a more gentle approach were transported up to the castle by motor coach. I opted out today, as my knee was acting up from the walking the day before. I had been to Heidelberg on a former trip, and decided instead to enjoy the facilities onboard, do some writing and relaxing.

November 7, 2017 // Strasbourg
We arrived Strasbourg early in the morning and tours began around 9am. We selected the standard walking tour and boarded our coaches to be dropped off at a starting point for the walk. Strasbourg is a marvelous historic city with a UNESCO World Heritage classification since 1988. The buses cannot go too far into the city, so we are dropped at the perimeter and our guide walks us into the center past marvelous buildings dating back to the 1500s. The city has been batted back-and-forth between Germany and French ownership many times in the past century- now finally resting as a French city on the “French Side” of the Rhine River. We enjoyed strolling through many quaint cobblestoned streets, passing lovely little shops until we arrived at its center marked by the Cathedral Notre Dame de Strasbourg. Inside, we enjoyed the famous Astronomical Clock which strikes precisely at noon. After the cathedral visit, we were free to enjoy Strasbourg at leisure with noted “meet up” just outside the cathedral every hour starting at 1:40pm, 2:40pm, 3:40pm, 4:40pm and 5:40pm. From this central point, we would be walked to the bus which was (we were told) 200-30 minute walk from the Cathedral. The bus would be stationed at Place d’Etoile Bus Station where the buses were now allowed to park. In previous years, we were told that buses were allowed all the way into the center, but the citizens protested due to the pollution and noise- so now, all motor coaches must be parked outside the city.

We spent a few hours enjoying Strasbourg – including an amazing lunch of Alsatian specialties- with a typical stew and Flammenküche (a flat bread topped with incredible melted gruyere cheese, ham and if you wish- other toppings). We also tasted another delicious Riesling Wine! While I was in Strasbourg, I had learned of a marvelous yarn shop with unique yarns and complete kits: Elle Tricotte… so I had to stop by for a souvenir knitting kit which I am thoroughly enjoying – a wrap of luscious woolen yarns to knit through the winter season.

As the afternoon melted into dusk, we found ourselves ready to go back to the ship on the 3:40pm departure. The walk over cobblestones today and the quick paced walk return with the group that joined us on the 3:40pm departure… it was a challenge. I kept thinking of clients and my parents with slower pace and mobility concerns and make a note that this is not “easy” walking.

After a lovely dinner, we had entertainment tonight- from a couple that offered beautiful French Chanssons- this was a treat. Many key songs from my own youth (lived in France for 5 years) made this a marvelous way to blend in French culture- songs from Edith Piaf and Charles Aznavour were delightful.

November 8, 2017 // Breisach
Today was another day offering a charming village tour of Riquewihr- this time, supposedly one of the most adorable French Villages- and the inspiration for the village in Disney’s animated version of Beauty & the Beast.

The day brought us some cold winds and rain. Because of my leg situation, I opted out today – instead staying onboard to elevate my leg. My companion took the tour to Riquewihr. She opted for a standard tour, they did not offer an active tour because the town is tiny- it would be finished in 5 minutes by bike. The town was truly adorable according to my friend- and she recommended that I absolutely try to see it in the future, should I ever return to the region. However, she did confirm what the Cruise Manager had offered about Riquewihr- and that is that the streets are quite sloped and uneven cobble stones would have made walking a challenge for anyone with mobility issues. I found myself onboard with a few others who had opted out- including one gentleman still in cast from his own leg injury.

The alternative today would have been Freidburg- a University Town which I had visited years ago. They, too, have a significant cathedral with lovely spires and a nice open air market square- fun shops and more.

The afternoon included a disembarkation briefing for the next day, along with a Future Cruise Presentation by our Cruise Manager which we attended. It was a quick overview of all the different types of cruises offered by AMA. I was surprised that there was no mention whatsoever of being able to transfer your onboard booked future cruise to your travel agent. That even if you book onboard, your travel agent can take care of the details once you return home.

November 9, 2017 // Disembarkation and Overnight in Basel
After breakfast, disembarkation was a very pleasant and easy experience. We had ordered a taxi from our Cruise Manager and our disembarkation was scheduled for 9:30am. We had booked a hotel stay in Basel so opted for a later disembark in order to give room for those that had early flights. Our hotel was reserved with early check-in guarantee- I had an agent rate at Radisson BLU Basel and they were lovely in accommodating my requests. However, the hotel itself is not in a great location- while central, it is across the street from several shops selling ‘adult products’ and the area is just not very lovely. Also, the interior of the hotel feels a bit commercial, dark and the rooms are forgettable. Bed was very comfortable and the reason I picked this property is that it is a short 5-10 minute walk to all central points from the hotel. Plus- just outside the door is one platform for the Trams servicing about 5 different lines- so super easy to board a tram from the hotel and you are within a few moments in the very heart of the city. Also, as of 2017- most hotels in Basel offer a FREE transport pass valid for the duration of your stay- you use the pass to simply hop on and off buses, trams and makes it very easy. So, with Radisson BLU Basel, you are in a central pedestrian friendly area so this was one reason I elected this property. Most of the other desirable hotels are on the other side of the river. Still, there are a couple of other hotel options on the same side of the river …so for clients, I would likely recommend one of those- for instance: Hotel Steinenschanze Stadthotel which is also walking distance friendly to the central part of Basel. Basel is a larger city than I expected, tons of shops and nice array of restaurants. I would definitely recommend a 1 night overnight post-cruise for clients that have the time to take that breather before heading home. Also, we ran into two fellow cruisers who we had met onboard… they too were enjoying some shopping time on the pedestrian friendly streets of Basel. They had selected Ibis Styles Basel City closer to the rail station and said it was perfectly fine. They were flying out the next morning from Basel Airport (15 minutes distance from the hotel).

Our hotel rate at Radisson BLU Basel did not include breakfast (super low agent rate) so we were informed that breakfast daily was 31 CHF per person (OMG)- it’s Switzerland!

We spent the afternoon exploring Basel, walking its many charming shopping streets. It’s still Oktoberfest here- so they have a variety of different fairs going on throughout the city with children’s fair rides and kiosks filled with sweets and goodies and toys. We enjoyed a midday snack at Schiesser Basel which is Chocolatier Establishment with a Tea Room upstairs. The Tea Room serves from a very small menu but we were very pleased with our Quiche & Salad combination, and tea. The views from the window look out on the open air market and the City Hall across the way- the pricing here was very reasonable compared to other places. And, on the way back out- you can buy some delicious Swiss Chocolate (bonus)! http://www.confiserie-schiesser.ch/tea-room.php

November 10, 2017 // Basel/Zurich
Today, because we did not have breakfast included in our rate and wanted to opt out of a 31 CHF breakfast, we headed out for breakfast and had spotted a McDonalds nearby. Unfortunately, McDonalds closed – they don’t serve breakfast. And, another discovery – no morning breakfast places at all! We walked and walked – and finally gave in and walked back towards our hotel remembering there was a Starbucks near our hotel. Starbucks it is! For one latte and a muesli mix: 15CHF. It’s not ideal but good to know that you either eat the hotel breakfast or – have some challenges in finding alternatives. I think of the clients that at times will say- we don’t need breakfast included- we will just go find a place for coffee. In Basel, not many options – although, they do have Starbucks.

We checked out by 11am and took the taxi to the train station. We had train tickets for the 12:37pm departure which would take us to the Zurich Airport. The train ride was about 2 ½ hours… a pleasant ride. Of note, we had Comfort tickets (1st class) – be aware that the trains have a Quiet Car for Comfort – which requires that passengers are 100% silent. One is not even permitted to listen to an MP3 player with headsets.. there is a window decal that suggests listening to anything with headsets is not even allowed. My companion and I were seated in this car at the beginning and were relaxing and quiet- but I opened my mouth once to ask my friend a question, and suddenly another passenger came over and shushed me… and pointed to the signs. No monkeying around here- one must be completely silent if one is to travel in this car. So, we moved one car in order to have freedom to talk a little along the way. Later on, I read an article about quirky things one finds about Switzerland- and while I realize there are quiet cars in other European countries- the Swiss take silence very seriously. Noise pollution is highly frowned upon. They have evening Noise Laws… very good to know! There are other interesting laws in Switzerland – here are a few samples: https://www.newlyswissed.com/11-weird-swiss-laws/

On arrival at Zurich Airport, we find that the distance from train to Radisson BLU Zurich Airport is fairly vast but easy to find. Important to know that the Zurich Airport is pretty large and that there is a significant amount of walking to get to places (again, for those senior or mobility challenged individuals). The Radisson BLU Zurich is wonderful- great quiet rooms – bright décor and lovely. Our rate here did include breakfast- even though we had an agent rate – bonus! Still, our flights are super early tomorrow so we may not take advantage.

We decide with our mid-afternoon arrival, to skip taking the train into Zurich and instead settle into our room and then walk to the airport area for a meal. Of note, there is not security to go through in order to get to shops and restaurants – all available for anyone off the street. The pricing of course – is high. For our dinner, we chose the Upper Deck Restaurant and found that for a meal that included Premium Swiss Beef Burger and Beer – 45 CHF per person. Well – again, we’re in Switzerland… not inexpensive. The food was delicious and we loved our beer too… great flavor. We took the opportunity to do our check-in after dinner with our respective airlines (my companion with Swiss Air and myself with KLM for my Delta coded KLM flight) because on-line check-in at “partner sites” on our phones did not work for either of us. So, we got out boarding passes and both instructed that we could “bag drop” the next morning. We retired early with our anticipated morning flights.

November 11, 2017 // Zurich/flight departure back to USA!
I found that after check-out, my walk to my Check-in Area 2 was fairly long distance. Something to be aware of with Zurich Airport is that the airport has 3 check-in areas …divided by airline and they are not next to one another. It’s like 3 separate “terminals” for check-in. You find a big “map” in various areas of the airport which shows which airlines are assigned to which check-in areas. Swiss Air was Check-In Area 1 for my friend- and her requirement was to bag drop by 5:15am – so she was off quite early. For me, I did my back drop at 6:45am for a 9:30am flight. Once the bag drop is completed, I am directed to the security area which will take me into the duty free shopping area and here I find a breakfast restaurant as well. After a brief breakfast, I look for the monitors and find that my “gate” will not be shown for the 9:30am flight until 7:30am. I browse a bit in shops and then see my gate listed and head to the gate. While I had ordered a wheelchair due to my leg… I decide to walk instead as I have plenty of time. Still, during the long trek (and it was long) I think of clients with mobility concerns/elderly and would advise a wheelchair for sure (thinking of my elderly parents- they would never manage walking from security all the way to the gate).

Flight from Zurich to Amsterdam was fine and on time. I had ordered a wheelchair for the transit in Amsterdam – and the agent in Zurich reconfirmed that this wheelchair order was in the system. However, when I arrived Amsterdam – the KLM agent at the gate’s response to my question about the location of my wheelchair was that there was none in the system. She pointed to her computer and firmly said we have not orders- if we had, it would be here. She was actually quite rude with me. And, I am not sure if this is coming from a perspective looking at a woman like me needing a wheelchair – not elderly, no leg cast or anything to show my need of a wheelchair but she was absolutely curt and short with me and it was truly unpleasant. I asked her if she could request one for me – her response was that it would take a long time for that chair to arrive… in other words, not worth it? I told her to forget it and that I would walk, figuring I had ample time and could walk slow. But as I was walking this distance (and it was a vast distance) I kept thinking of clients that would request wheelchairs, and my parents – this would have been a disaster and I will make sure to properly counsel clients that we can do our best to order it, but no guarantees.

The situation in Amsterdam is that everyone traveling on Delta on an international connection – is directed to gate D1. There, you go through immigration screening – and there – receive your final gate number after clearing their questions. It’s like a clearing point for ongoing travels from Amsterdam to any point in the USA.

The flight home in Comfort Class was comfortable, pleasant – food good, entertainment very good.

Overall – a great trip!

-Katherine